Jesse - That is the app. It isn’t a robust app like RollWorld or the desktop Insta360 app, but it seems to work well for what it is. Here is an example of a time I used it to share a 360 photo on Instagram:
I wasn’t in totality for this eclipse, but Boise was close enough to the path that I thought I’d try a Theta time-lapse. I found the experience very moving - the sudden temperature, light and sound changes are pretty amazing. It got dark enough here for the street lights to come on briefly. I was underwhelmed by my footage, but made this tiny planet version… It does show an interesting change in light and the shifting halo around the planet is pretty cool. The contrail at the end steals the show.
Wow, I think you did some cool things here. I agree, the “eclipse” didn’t come through, but the change in light is pretty dramatic. And, yes, the contrails shooting through near the end are neat.
@jcasman - I don’t think I’ve ever seen the rolling shutter effect on insect wings. It makes me wish I had some video of this same bee/Theta encounter.
On all other Ricoh cameras you can leave the shutter speed, exposure time and ISO on auto and set the white-balance. Unfortunately on the Theta cameras you can’t do it so you have to choose shutter or ISO priority to enable the white-balance setting. I use ISO priority because it has a greater range of light that it can use without under/over exposing the image.
For daytime I set the ISO to lowest because the slower shutter speeds create movement blur which enhances the timelapse result. If you’re shooting on a cloudy day and want to be able to see the clouds then you should lower the exposure compensation a notch or two too as you can’t combine interval shooting with HDR.
At night i find it’s best to go full-manual as the auto exposures tend to be a bit conservative. On a tripod or clamp you can push the ISO & shutter speed towards their maximums but a lot of noise does creep in at higher ISOs.
Thanks for the insight on the white balance being connected to shutter or ISO priority. I’ve noticed that but didn’t know it was different on other cameras. Thanks also for the hint on full-manual settings at night. Do you have any suggestions for testing? I’ve found I will try some new settings, but have trouble looking at the results, tweaking and reiterating in similar conditions. I guess it’s just more repetition and trial and error?
Check the red lens flare, it disappear when the the clouds come in front of the sun, i think the typical THETA red spot are the sun itself projected trough the prisms inside the camera
The red spot newer appears on the 10 times bigger DSLR images (140 megapixel)
i think it is THETA specific, turning the Theta around
the red spot mows to the other lens.
Latest screenshot from RICOH THETA app version 1.15.1 showing “not specified” for unlimited (well, limited by battery life and internal storage) Interval shooting.